Priest Lake Veterinary Hospital Newsletters
Newsletter for March 2004
Hello friends and pet lovers:
Genealogical map reveals 10 top
dogs
All of the hundreds of breeds of modern domestic dog, from the Afghan hound to
the Chihuahua, can be traced back to just 10 "progenitor" breeds, say
US scientists.
Deborah Lynch of the Canine Studies Institute in Ohio, and Jenny Madeoy, of the
Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Institute in Washington State, studied canine
physiology and behavior, historical records and the available genetic
information.
"It's a new way of thinking about purebred dogs," said Lynch.
"For the first time we have identified progenitor breeds for each
type."
Humans first domesticated wolves about 15,000 years ago, most probably to help
them hunt. Domestication involves selectively breeding a species so that they
can be controlled more easily. The latest genetic information suggests that the
domestication of wolves first occurred in Asia.
Top 10
The researchers believe that by 10,000 to 12,000 years later, 10
"progenitor breeds" of dog had been created to fulfill different roles
alongside their masters. It took a further 5000 to 3000 years for people to
create the 300 or so pure breeds known today.
Retracing this breeding process is not a simple task, as the modern dog breeds
show more physiological variation than is seen for any other species of mammal.
The 10 progenitors identified by the researchers are: sight hounds, scent
hounds, working and guard dogs, northern breeds, flushing spaniels, water
spaniels and retrievers, pointers, terriers, herding dogs and toy and companion
dogs.
The sight hound, specialized for coursing game, is thought to have emerged in
Mesopotamia around 4000 to 5000 BC. Modern breeds such as the greyhound and
Afghan hound are found at the end of this branch of the canine family tree.
The scent hound meanwhile appeared around 3000 BC, characterized by a highly
sensitized sense of smell and a body suited to warm weather. The bloodhound,
foxhound, and dachshund are all thought to have descended from this dog.
Working and guard dogs probably emerged in Tibet around 3000 BC, with modern
descendents including the rottweiler, the St Bernard's and the bulldog. At
roughly the same time, toy and companion breeds apparently emerged in Malta.
Modern descendents include the poodle and pug.
"It's always interesting" to have this sort of family tree, says
Gordon Lark, who is studying canine genetics at the University of Utah. But he
says developing a genetic map, rather than a genealogical one will be more
useful for understanding canine evolution, behavior and health.
Scientists are expected to finish sequencing the dog genome within a year. This
genetic data could be used to identify and treat dog illnesses, especially those
common among purebreds.
And Lynch believes similarities between canine and human genetic code could
enable scientists to use this information to study the genetic causes of some
human diseases as well.
The study was presented at the annual meeting of the American Association for
the Advancement of Science in Seattle, Washington
Feline Behavior Problems:
House Soiling
House soiling is the most
common behavior problem reported by cat owners. It includes urination and/or
defecation outside the litter box, as well as urine spraying.
Why do cats eliminate outside of the litter box?
One common misconception is that cats soil in inappropriate places for revenge.
It is tempting to conclude, "He defecated on the living room carpet to
punish me for leaving him for the weekend." But this kind of calculation
requires sophisticated cognitive abilities that cats aren't believed to possess.
Furthermore, this conclusion assumes that cats view their urine and feces as
distasteful, when in fact they do not. It is only we humans who view it that
way.
Medical Problems
So why do cats urinate or defecate on your bed or carpet? Medical problems
are one possibility. Inflammation of the urinary tract may cause painful or
frequent urination, inability to urinate, bloody urine, and crying during
urination. An affected cat is likely to eliminate outside the litter box if he
comes to associate the box with painful urination, or if he has an increased
urgency to urinate. In addition, kidney, liver, and thyroid diseases often lead
to increased drinking and urination. Inflammation of the colon or rectum,
intestinal tract tumors, intestinal parasites, and other gastrointestinal
conditions may cause painful defecation, increased frequency or urgency to
defecate, and decreased control of defecation. Age-related diseases that
interfere with a cat's mobility (for example, arthritis, nervous system
disorders, or muscular diseases), or with his cognitive functions can also
influence his ability to get to the litter box in time. In short, any medical
condition that interferes with a cat's normal elimination behavior can lead to
house soiling.
Litter Box Aversions
Behavioral problems, such as litter box aversions, inappropriate site
preferences, or urine spraying can also lead to house soiling. An aversion
implies that there is something about the litter box that your cat finds
unsavory. It could be the box, the litter, the location of the box, or all
three.
Something about the litter box bothers your cat.
* The box contains harsh odors. The litter box may have an
offensive odor if you clean it with harsh chemicals. Or, if you don't clean it
enough, the box may smell strongly of ammonia (a normal byproduct of urine). In
either case, covered litter boxes hold in and amplify such odors.
* The sides of the box are too high. Cats with painful legs,
sore joints, or other mobility problems may have trouble getting into a box with
high sides. Kittens have similar problems.
Something about the litter bothers your cat.
* The litter is dirty. Cats usually prefer clean litter.
* The texture of the litter is distasteful. Your cat may have
a preference for finer-textured clumping litter over coarser non-clumping
litter—or vice versa.
* The scent of the litter is unpleasant. Most cats prefer
non-scented litter.
The location of the litter box bothers your cat.
* The box is in an unpleasant area. Avoid placing the litter
box in a high-traffic, noisy, dark, or dank area.
* Your cat is afraid to use the box. If another cat, dog, or
human terrorizes your cat when she's in the box, or ambushes her as she exits,
she may avoid the box altogether.
Cats with aversions usually eliminate on varying surfaces. You may find puddles
of urine and/or feces on either soft surfaces like carpets, beds, or clothing,
or on hard, shiny surfaces like tile floors or bathtubs. Depending on the
severity of your cat's aversion, he may continue to use the litter box, but only
inconsistently.
Inappropriate Site Preferences
Alternatively, your cat may develop a preference for eliminating in a spot other
than the box. Preferences can be categorized as follows:
* Another surface is more desirable for elimination. Cats
that prefer certain surfaces usually stick with that choice. For example, a cat
that finds it more pleasing to eliminate on
soft surfaces like clothing or carpets would be unlikely to use tile floors.
* Another location is more desirable for elimination. This
usually results from an aversion to the current box location.
As with aversions, cats with preferences for certain surfaces or locations may
continue to use the litter box inconsistently. One cause for house soiling may
lead to another. For example, a cat with a urinary tract disorder that can't
make it to the litter box in time will urinate wherever she is. She may then
develop a preference for the new site and continue to eliminate there.
Urine Spraying
When your cat rubs against your leg with his face, or scratches his scratching
post, he is also depositing his scent from the glands in his cheeks and paws.
Another equally normal but less pleasant marking behavior is urine spraying--the
deposition of small amounts of urine around a given area. Spraying announces a
cat's presence, establishes or maintains territorial boundaries, and advertises
sexual availability.
Cats usually spray on vertical surfaces, like the backs of chairs, or walls.
They don't squat to spray (as they do to urinate), but the tail lifts and
quivers, and small puddles of urine are left in several consistent locations.
Cats that spray are usually unneutered males and, to a lesser extent, unspayed
females, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females also spray. In
households with more than seven cats, the likelihood of spraying is high.
Cats may spray when they perceive a threat to their territory, such as when a
new cat enters the home, or when outside cats are nearby. New furniture and
carpet smells can prompt spraying as well. Cats may also spray out of
frustration resulting from factors—like restrictive diets, or insufficient
playtime—often wrongly perceived by humans as revenge.
My cat is not using the litter box reliably. What should I do?
First, address the problem promptly. The longer the behavior persists, the more
likely it is to become habit. If you have more than one cat, you may need to
separate them until you can identify the responsible party. Alternatively, your
veterinarian can provide you with a special non-toxic stain given by mouth that
will show up in the urine. In cases of defecation outside the box, you can feed
one cat small pieces (about twice the size of a sesame seed) of a brightly
colored non-toxic child's crayon that will show up in the feces. If you find
urine puddles in the house, it is important to distinguish between spraying and
other forms of house soiling. Watch your cat for signs of spraying—or set up a
video camera when you're not around.
Once you have identified the house-soiling cat, it is wise to take him to your
veterinarian for a thorough physical examination and appropriate diagnostic
tests to see if there are underlying medical problems. Cats with medical
conditions may not always act sick. Once medical causes have been ruled out,
your detective work begins. Here are some patterns that may point to a cause:
* Is there one type of surface upon which your cat
eliminates? If so, she may have a preference for certain surfaces, and you can
modify your litter to match it. If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a
softer, finer litter, and put a carpet remnant in her box. If she has a penchant
for smooth, shiny surfaces, consider putting tiles in her box, covered with only
a small amount of litter. Over time more litter can be added.
* Is there a certain location she prefers? She may have
developed a preference for a new area because something bothered her about the
old area. Try placing a litter box in her "preferred" location. Once
she reliably uses it, gradually move the box just a few inches a day back to the
desired location. Stop moving the box if she stops using it; instead simply move
it back to the spot where she last reliably used it, then gradually begin moving
it again.
* Is yours a multi-pet household where another animal
terrorizes your cat while she's in the litter box or as she exits? If so, the
cat may be afraid to use the box. If you currently use a covered box, replace it
with one that gives her a 360-degree view. This will give her more confidence
while she's in the box and make her less prone to ambush. Also, position the box
so that she has more than one way out (i.e. don't have the box surrounded on
three sides). Finally, place multiple boxes in multiple locations to give your
cat more options.
* When your cat uses the box, does he cry, refuse to bury his
waste, perch on the edge of the box without touching the litter, or eliminate
right near the box?
* If so, first be sure the box is clean. Some cats refuse to
use a box containing any urine or feces whatsoever; meticulous litter box
cleanliness is necessary for these individuals. (See "Keeping the Litter
Box Clean.")
* Your cat may dislike the litter you use, especially if
you've recently and suddenly changed brands. If you must switch brands, do so
gradually, adding more of the new litter to the old with each cleaning. Most
cats prefer their litter unscented, and an inch or two deep.
The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens
and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. Although humans like covered boxes
for reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat's point of view, covers hold
odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may need to purchase several
types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which combination your
cat likes best. Finally, provide as many boxes as there are cats in the
house—plus one. For example, if you have two cats, there should be three
litter boxes. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her
own.
How can I stop my cat from spraying?
Because spraying is different than other types of house soiling, different
tactics are necessary to manage it. First, because there are often hormonal
components to spraying, any intact animal should be neutered or spayed. Next,
identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats are
responsible, motion detectors that trigger sprinklers can be used to deter them
from coming onto your property. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from
looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape or
electronic mats that deliver mild shocks onto your windowsills.
Address possible sources of frustration that may be causing your cat to spray.
For example, introduce a new diet gradually, or discontinue it until the
spraying is under control. Increasing the amount of playtime for an
under-stimulated cat may also help ease frustration.
Spraying can also result from territorial disputes between cats in the same
household. They may need to be separated and reintroduced slowly, using food
treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior.
Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from
spraying there again. Another useful commercial product is Feliway®, a
synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent
of cat cheek gland secretions. Many cats will not spray on areas that have this
scent. (See the end of this brochure for information on where to purchase the
above-mentioned products.)
Will medications stop my cat from house soiling?
Spraying is more responsive to anti-anxiety drugs than other types of house
soiling. However, medication is only part of the solution, and must be used in
conjunction with environmental changes. Any medication can have potentially
damaging and/or unwanted side effects, and not all cats are good candidates.
Cats placed on long-term medication must be monitored closely by a veterinarian.
What can I use to clean my cat-soiled carpet, couch, and other household
items?
Cats will re-soil and spray areas previously impregnated with their scent.
Therefore, cleaning up your cat-soiled belongings is important, not only to undo
the damage, but to break the cycle of elimination. Because it is much easier to
eliminate odors in recently-soiled areas, clean them as soon as possible. A
cat's sense of smell is far keener than ours; therefore odors must be
neutralized, not just deodorized. However, avoid cleaning products containing
ammonia or vinegar—they smell like urine and can be irritating.
What other methods should I consider?
* Sheets of plastic, newspaper, or sandpaper, electronic mats
that deliver harmless, mild shocks, or a carpet runner with the nubs facing up
may all discourage your cat from entering a soil-prone area.
* Try changing the significance of a soiled area. Cats prefer
to eat and eliminate in separate areas, so try placing food bowls and treats in
previously soiled areas. Playing with your cat in that space and leaving toys
there may also be helpful.
* Try denying your cat access to a given area by closing
doors, or by covering the area with furniture or plants. Baby gates will not
keep a cat out of a room.
* Catch him in the act. A bell on a breakaway collar tells
you his whereabouts. If you can catch him within the first seconds of his
elimination routine, startle him with a water gun or shake a jar of pennies, so
that he associates being startled with those actions. It is important that you
startle rather than scare him; fear will only worsen the problem. Moreover, if
you catch him after he's eliminated, your window of opportunity is gone—you
must catch him just as he's about to eliminate.
* Never hit, kick, or scream at a cat. Not only does this
create more anxiety, which may contribute to house soiling behavior, but also
such tactics provide no link between the "crime" and the punishment.
Some owners resort to rubbing their cat's face in their excrement to "teach
the cat a lesson." This is completely ineffective, first because cats do
not view their urine and feces as distasteful, and second, because even moments
later, cats cannot make the connection between the mess on the bed and this kind
of punishment.
Conclusion
A common and frustrating problem, inappropriate elimination can be difficult to
control. A full resolution depends on early intervention, followed by detective
work to determine the cause of the behavior, and time and effort on your part to
solve the problem. In partnership with veterinarians, both cats and the people
who love them can live in harmony and good health.
Helpful hints for preventing
litter box problems
1. Choosing an appropriate litter and box
* Most cats prefer unscented, finer-textured litter, at a
depth of one to two inches.
* Young kittens, elderly cats, and cats with mobility
problems need boxes with low sides.
* Overweight and large cats need bigger boxes.
* Most cats prefer an uncovered box that lets odors escape
and allows a 360-degree view of their surroundings.
* Have as many litter boxes as cats in the house-plus one.
2. Choosing a good litter box location
* Most cats prefer a location that is quiet, private,
separate from their feeding area, and easily accessible 24 hours a day.
* Do not locate the litter box up or down stairs if your cat
has trouble climbing.
* Place multiple boxes in different areas of the house.
3. Keeping the box clean
* If you use clumping litter, remove feces and clumps daily
and add clean litter as needed.
* A liner may help keep the box cleaner, but many cats don't
like them.
* To clean the box, scrub it with a gentle detergent, dry it,
and refill with clean litter. Litter should be changed often enough so that it
looks and smells dry and clean. The more
cats using the box, the more often this will need to be done.
* Replace old boxes that smell or are cracked.
Suggested cleaning products and
resources:
Cleaners/Deodorizers Pheromone
Spray
Anti-Icky-Poo (AIP)
Bug-A-Boo Chemicals
11924 NE Sumner
Portland, OR 97220
Feliway®
Abbott Laboratories
1401 North Sheridan Road
North Chicago, IL 60064
Nature's Miracle
Pets 'N People Inc.
27520 Hawthorne Boulevard, Suite 125
Rolling Hills Estates, CA 90274
(Also available at most major pet stores)
Electronic Mats
Scatmat/Scarecrow Motion Activated Sprinklers
Contech Electronics, Inc.
P.O. Box 115
Saanichton, British Columbia
Canada V8M 2C3
Outright Stain and Odor Removal Products
The Bramton Company
P.O. Box 655450
Dallas, TX 75265-5450
PetMat
Radio Systems Corporation
5008 National Drive
Knoxville, TN 37914
Oxyfresh Pet Deodorizer
Oxyfresh USA, Inc.
P.O. Box 3723
Spokane, WA 99220
Motion Detectors
Scarecrow
The Dog's Outfitter
1 Maplewood Drive
Hazleton, PA 18201
(Motion detector that turns on a
sprinkler when activated)
The Special Needs of the Senior
Cat
Just as people are living
longer than they did in the past, cats are living longer too. In fact, the
percentage of cats over six years of age has nearly doubled in just over a
decade, and there is every reason to expect that the "graying" cat
population will continue to grow.
So how old is my cat, really?
Cats are individuals and, like people, they experience advancing years in their
own unique ways. Many cats begin to encounter age-related physical changes
between seven and ten years of age, and most do so by the time they are 12. The
commonly held belief that every "cat year" is worth seven "human
years" is not entirely accurate. In reality, a one-year-old cat is
physiologically similar to a 16-year-old human, and a two-year-old cat is like a
person of 21. For every year thereafter, each cat year is worth about four human
years. Using this formula, a ten-year-old cat is similar age wise to a
53-year-old person, a 12-year-old cat to a 61-year-old person, and a 15-year-old
cat to a person of 73.
Advancing age is not a disease
Aging is a natural process. Although many complex physical changes accompany
advancing years, age in and of itself is not a disease. Even though many
conditions that affect older cats are not correctable, they can often be
controlled. The key to making sure your senior cat has the healthiest and
highest quality of life possible is to recognize and reduce factors that may be
health risks, detect disease as early as possible, correct or delay the
progression of disease, and improve or maintain the health of the body's
systems.
What happens as my cat ages?
The aging process is accompanied by many physical and behavioral changes:
* Compared to younger cats, the immune system of older cats
is less able to fend off foreign invaders. Chronic diseases often associated
with aging can impair immune function even
further.
* Dehydration, a consequence of many diseases common to older
cats, further diminishes blood circulation and immunity.
* The skin of an older cat is thinner and less elastic, has
reduced blood circulation, and is more prone to infection.
* Older cats groom themselves less effectively than do
younger cats, sometimes resulting in hair matting, skin odor, and inflammation.
* The claws of aging felines are often overgrown, thick, and
brittle.
* In humans, aging changes in the brain contribute to a loss
of memory and alterations in personality commonly referred to as senility.
Similar symptoms are seen in elderly cats: wandering, excessive meowing,
apparent disorientation, and avoidance of social interaction.
* For various reasons, hearing loss is common in cats of
advanced age.
* Aging is also accompanied by many changes in the eyes. A
slight haziness of the lens and a lacy appearance to the iris (the colored
part of the eye) are both common age-related
changes, but neither seems to decrease a cat's vision to any appreciable extent.
However, several diseases—especially those
associated with high blood pressure—can seriously and irreversibly impair a
cat's ability
to see.
* Dental disease is extremely common in older cats and can
hinder eating and cause significant pain.
* Although many different diseases can cause a loss of
appetite, in healthy senior cats, a decreased sense of smell may be partially
responsible for a loss of interest in eating.
However, the discomfort associated with dental disease is a more likely cause of
reluctance
to eat.
* Feline kidneys undergo a number of age-related changes that
may ultimately lead to impaired function; kidney failure is a common
disease in older cats, and its symptoms are
extremely varied.
* Degenerative joint disease, or arthritis, is common in
older cats. Although most arthritic cats don't become overtly lame, they may
have
difficulty gaining access to litter boxes and
food and water dishes, particularly if they have to jump or climb stairs to get
to them.
* Hyperthyroidism (often resulting in overactivity);
hypertension (high blood pressure, usually a result of either kidney failure or
hyperthyroidism), diabetes mellitus; inflammatory
bowel disease; and cancer are all examples of conditions that, though sometimes
seen in younger cats, become more prevalent in
cats as they age.
Is my cat sick, or is it just old age?
Owners of older cats often notice changes in their cat's behavior, but consider
these changes an inevitable and untreatable result of aging, and fail to report
them to their veterinarian. Failure to use the litter box, changes in activity
levels, and alterations in eating, drinking, or sleeping habits are examples.
While veterinarians believe that some behavior problems are due to the
diminishing mental abilities of aging cats, it is a mistake to automatically
attribute all such changes to old age. In fact, the possibility of some
underlying medical condition should always be the first consideration. Disease
of virtually any organ system, or any condition that causes pain or impairs
mobility can contribute to changes in behavior. For example:
* A fearful cat may not become aggressive until it is in pain
(e.g., from dental disease) or less mobile (e.g., from arthritis).
* The increased urine production that often results from
diseases common to aging cats (e.g., kidney failure, diabetes mellitus, or
hyperthyroidism) may cause the litter box
to become soiled more quickly than expected. The increased soil and odor may
cause cats
to find a bathroom more to their liking.
* Many cats that do not mark their territory with urine, even
if exposed to intruding cats, may begin to do so if a condition like
hyperthyroidism develops.
* Cats with painful arthritis may have difficulty gaining
access to a litter box, especially if negotiating stairs is required. Even
climbing into
the box may be painful for such cats; urinating
or defecating in an inappropriate location is the natural result.
* Older cats may be more sensitive to changes in the
household since their ability to adapt to unfamiliar situations diminishes with
age.
The take-home message? Never assume that changes you see in your older cat are
simply due to old age, and therefore untreatable. Any alteration in your cat's
behavior or physical condition should alert you to contact your veterinarian.
How can I help keep my senior cat healthy?
Close observation is one of the most important tools you have to help keep your
senior cat healthy. You may wish to perform a mini-physical examination on a
weekly basis. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to do it and what to look
for. You will find it easier if you just make the examination an extension of
the way you normally interact with your cat. For example, while you are rubbing
your cat's head or scratching its chin, gently raise the upper lips with your
thumb or forefinger so you can examine the teeth and gums. In the same way, you
can lift the ear flaps and examine the ear canals. While you are stroking your
cat's fur, you can check for abnormal lumps or bumps, and evaluate the health of
the skin and coat.
Daily Brushing
Daily brushing or combing removes loose hairs, preventing them from being
swallowed and forming hair balls. Brushing also stimulates blood circulation and
sebaceous gland secretions, resulting in a healthier skin and coat. Older cats
may not use scratching posts as frequently as they did when they were younger;
therefore, nails should be checked weekly and trimmed if necessary.
Proper Nutrition
Many cats tend towards obesity as they age. If your cat is overweight, you
should ask your veterinarian to help you modify the diet so that a normal body
condition can be restored. Other cats actually become too thin as they get
older, apparently as part of the normal aging process. But progressive weight
loss can also be caused by serious medical problems such as kidney failure,
cancer, diabetes mellitus, inflammatory bowel disease, liver disease,
hyperthyroidism, or some other condition. Subtle changes in weight are often the
first sign of disease; ideally you should weigh your cat every month on a scale
sensitive enough to detect such small changes. Keep a record of the weight, and
notify your veterinarian of any significant changes. To ensure proper nutrition,
select a nutritionally balanced and complete diet for your cat's stage of life,
and one that is formulated according to guidelines established by the
Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Specific dietary changes
may be necessary for cats with certain medical conditions. Your veterinarian can
be of invaluable assistance in helping you select the most appropriate diet for
your senior cat.
Exercise
Exercise is important, not only for weight control but overall health. Older
cats frequently become less agile as arthritis develops and muscles begin to
atrophy. Regularly engaging your cat in moderate play can promote muscle tone
and suppleness, increase blood circulation, and help reduce weight in cats that
are too heavy. During times of exercise, be alert to labored breathing or rapid
tiring that may suggest the cat has a disease. It may also be necessary to
relocate litter boxes to more accessible locations to prevent elderly cats from
eliminating in inappropriate locations. Purchasing a litter box with low sides,
cutting down high sides, or constructing a ramp around the box may help older
cats gain entry more easily.
Reducing Stress
Reducing environmental stress whenever possible is very important since older
cats are usually less adaptable to change. Special provisions should be made for
older cats that must be boarded for a period of time. Having a familiar object,
such as a blanket or toy, may prevent the cat from becoming too distraught in a
strange environment. A better alternative is to have the older cat cared for at
home by a neighbor, friend, or relative. Introducing a new pet may be a
traumatic experience for older cats, and should be avoided whenever possible.
Moving to a new home can be equally stressful. However, some stress can be
alleviated by giving the older cat more affection and attention during times of
emotional upheaval.
Cats are experts at hiding illness, and elderly cats are no exception. It is
common for a cat to have a serious medical problem, yet not show any sign of it
until the condition is quite advanced. Since most diseases can be managed more
successfully when detected and treated early in their course, it is important
for owners of senior cats to carefully monitor their behavior and health.
If you can't answer "yes" to all of the following statements, please
call your veterinarian as soon as possible.
My cat:
* is acting normally; seems active and in good spirits
* does not tire easily with moderate exercise
* does not have seizures or fainting episodes
* has a normal appetite
* has had no significant change in weight
* has a normal level of thirst and drinks the usual amount of
water (about an ounce per pound of body weight per day, or less)
* does not vomit often
* does not regurgitate undigested food
* has no difficulty eating or swallowing
* has normal appearing bowel movements (formed and firm with
no blood or mucus)
* defecates without difficulty
* urinates in normal amounts and with normal frequency; urine
color is normal
* urinates without difficulty
* always uses a clean litter box
* has not developed any new offensive behavioral tendencies
(such as aggression or urine spraying)
* has gums that are pink with no redness, swelling, or
bleeding
* does not sneeze and has no nasal discharge
* has eyes that are bright, clear, and free of discharge
* has a coat that is full, glossy, and free of bald spots and
mats; no excessive shedding is evident
* doesn't scratch, lick, or chew excessively
* has skin that is not greasy and has no offensive odor
* is free of fleas, ticks, lice, and mites
* has no persistent abnormal swellings
* has no sores that do not heal
* has no bleeding or discharge from any body opening
* has ears that are clean and odor free
* doesn't shake its head or scratch its ears
* hears normally and reacts as usual to its environment
* walks without stiffness, pain, or difficulty
* has feet that appear healthy, and has claws of normal
length
* breathes normally without straining or coughing
How can my veterinarian help?
Just as your observations can help detect disease in the early stages, so too
can regular veterinary examinations. Your veterinarian may suggest evaluating
your healthy senior cat more frequently than a younger cat—for example, every
six months instead of once a year. If your cat has a medical condition, more
frequent evaluations may be necessary. During your cat's examination, the
veterinarian will gather a complete medical and behavioral history, perform a
thorough physical examination in order to evaluate every organ system, check
your cat's weight and body condition, and compare them to previous evaluations.
At least once a year, certain tests—including blood tests, fecal examination,
and urine analysis—will be suggested. In this way, disorders can be found and
treated early, and ongoing medical conditions can be appraised. Both are
necessary to keep your senior cat in the best possible health for the longest
possible time.
Best Regards,
Dr. Pennington
http://www.priestlakevet.com
priestlake@mindspring.com
615-361-4646