Exotic Animal and Avian Newsletter
Priest Lake Veterinary Hospital, PLLC
2704C Murfreesboro Rd
Antioch, TN 37013
(615) 361-4646
July/August 2010
August is…
August 21 is National Homeless Animals Day
Exotic animal dentistry
Most animals seen by veterinarians have teeth. Where teeth are present, dental disease can and frequently does occur. Dental disease, also called periodontal disease, can be much more serious than you may think. In fact, a link has been proven between periodontal disease and systemic disease. Plaque on the teeth (the brown hard stuff you see) is actually dried, caked on bacteria and minerals from saliva. Through the gums, the bacteria can get into the blood stream and go to a number of organs. The bacteria then “seeds” itself in the organ and causes problems. For example, if the bacteria settles on a heart valve, it can cause it to become inflamed and crinkle. When the valves crinkle they can no longer perform their job efficiently and heart murmurs occur.
Small mammals such as the ferret require similar oral care to a cat. This would include regular brushing with a pet approved toothpaste and periodic veterinary cleanings and assessments. Rodents and Sugar Gliders are different in that their incisor teeth (the front teeth) grow continuously. This is an adaptation that developed due to heavy gnawing with their incisors. Rabbits, guinea pigs, and chinchillas are in another group because all of their teeth continue to grow. Whenever a tooth continues to grow and is not being maintained with appropriate chewing, overgrowth can occur. This can be extremely painful to the animal and can cause punctures or erosions to the cheeks or even entrap the tongue. Needless to say it can make it very difficult to eat and often causes drooling and weight loss. It is important to have your animals teeth checked at each yearly. In the case of ferrets dental cleanings by the veterinarian may be needed. With the animals that have continuously growing teeth, the teeth may need to be trimmed down to help your pet to eat and remain healthy.
Avian Heart Disease
Caged birds, in comparison to wild birds, are frequently compromised by restricted exercise, nutritional deficiencies, and unnatural climate conditions. These factors combined with the bird’s naturally high blood pressure make the risks for heart disease quite significant.
The avian heart is much like our heart, it has four chambers and is heavily muscled to pump blood to the rest of our bodies. However, diagnosing heart disease in birds is significantly more complicated than in people. Diagnostic techniques are limited by the size of the patient, the bird’s naturally fast heart rate, and the degree of stress placed on the patient from each test. Also, a complicating factor is that little has been clinically documented in regards to avian heart disease, and normal reference values for most tests do not exist.
Signs of heart disease in birds can be nonspecific and may also be accompanied by other diseases which can disguise the clinical picture. Signs most often seen are weakness, lethargy, bluish discoloration of the skin around the eyes (particularly in African Greys), abdominal distension, difficulty breathing, and exercise intolerance.
Diagnosis of heart disease is often based on examination, but if the patient is in stable condition other tests can be done for confirmation. Radiographs can be used to visualize the heart and evaluate the position, size, and shape of the heart. Echocardiography (ultrasound of the heart) is another test that can be used. This shows a picture of the heart as it is beating. It helps to assess the blood flow in and out of the heart. This would be scheduled with an ultrasound specialist (once again if the patient’s condition is stable enough)
Treatment of avian heart disease is still being researched, only a few studies exist to date and many drugs routinely used in mammals have not yet been tested in caged and aviary birds. Not to mention, drugs that work well in one bird species do not necessarily work well in another! Unfortunately, heart disease does currently carry a poor prognosis for survival because heart disease in birds is not often caught until the heart decompensates or fails (remember parrots are a prey species and they do not show illness until they are extremely ill). This means that we are left playing “catch up” and trying to treat a heart showing advanced disease changes.
Things that can be done to help prevent this are reduce the fat in your bird’s diet, avoid french fries and other fatty foods that can cause cholesterol plaques in your bird’s arteries. Make sure your bird gets plenty of exercise. Just like in people a “perch potato” just like a “couch potato” is more prone to heart disease due to lack of exercise. And make sure your bird has yearly health exams so any diseases can be caught early. The earlier a disease is treated, the better chance for success.
Hamster care
Hamsters can make great pets for adults and older children. However, more care and upkeep needs to be taken to keep them healthy than most people initially think. Hamsters are not a “high maintenance” pet, but learning correct care will prevent many disorders and injuries in the long run. Here is some general hamster information to help.
Hamsters are in the rodent family, and their care is similar to most rodents. The most common type of hamster on the pet market today is the Syrian or Golden Hamster (Mesocricetus auratus), although other species do exist. Hamsters are nocturnal. This means they are most active at night, so if you enjoy sleeping, a bedroom may not be the best place to house your hamster. As far as aggression, they are aggressive toward each other and need to be housed individually. They can also be aggressive and bite if not properly socialized, not frequently handled, or startled awake. Adult supervision is always advised when handling a hamster.
Gestation (pregnancy length) for a hamster lasts 15-18 days with puberty occurring around 45 to 75 days of age. Life expectancy is on average 18 to 24 months, and adult hamsters weigh approximately 80-150 grams.
Health examinations should be performed every 6 months due to the rapid aging of this species. Common concerns are diarrhea, overgrown teeth, impacted cheek pouches, tumors, and trauma.
Hamster’s incisors (front teeth) continue to grow throughout their life, so appropriate chew toys should be used to encourage natural wear. In fact, the term rodent is derived from the Latin verb rodere, which means “to gnaw,” so make sure their area does not have wires close by, fabric that can be pulled into the cage, or any other items that your hamster may hurt him/herself by chewing.
Housing should be well ventilated, and be large enough for separate sleeping, eating, and bathroom areas (usually at least 20x20 inches). Galvanized stainless steel mesh wire cages with solid flooring work well because they provide ample ventilation, are easy to clean, and the solid flooring helps prevent foot/leg injuries. The popular completely enclosed plastic rodent housing is not a good choice. This type of enclosure offers poor ventilation which means ammonia vapors from the urine can easily build up and get trapped (imagine living in a porta-pottie). If you already have this type of enclosure, make sure you clean it daily to reduce the amount of urine/feces present. Since hamsters are strong chewers. Soft wood, plastic, and soft metals are inadequate because they can facilitate chewing, escaping, and possible injury.
Bedding should be used to allow burrowing and provide comfort. Hardwood shavings or recycled newspaper are both excellent choices. “Aromatic” wood shavings, like cedar, should be avoided. These woods contain oils that can lead to foot infections and can irritate the respiratory system of most rodents.
Pelleted or block diets are best for all rodents. They provide uniform and adequate nutrition. Seed diets are often inadequate in nutrients, and the hamster will often pick out certain seeds causing even more of a nutritional deficiency. Most pet stores carry a variety of rodent pellets for all types of rodents.
Initial cost is about $10 to $20 for the hamster and another $100 to $200 for other startup items, such as cage, bedding, etc. Yearly costs for a healthy hamster will range from $200 to $300. If your hamster gets sick and needs medical care, the costs increase. The yearly cost is something most people do not figure in prior to adoption, so make sure you think about all aspects before bringing your hamster home.
Having a pet hamster can be a fun and rewarding experience! Hopefully, the above information will help you decide if a hamster is right for your household. If you have questions about having a pet hamster please give us a call.